Wood slaps propose an array of challenges. We’ve addressed each and every one through trial and error over the years. Acquisition of the logs itself is a large undertaking. The very first thing we acquired was a log truck, enabling us to procure every fallen tree we could find. By networking with various tree services that are hired to remove large, troubled trees, we now have an inextinguishable supply of majestic trees. We can therefore fill any custom order that we receive.
We have accumulated a number of behemoth trees that are in excess of 24 feet long and nearly 7 feet in diameter. After the log is loaded onto the sawmill, it is cut into giant slabs that can way upwards of 2000lbs each. Needless to say, handling these massive logs can be a slow and difficult, albeit extremely rewarding process.
With such large, heavy trees, you have to start with a structural base, even before the track that the mill rides on is installed. This is a 12” inch thick, 4000lb tensile strength solid slab of concrete. First the concrete pad is reinforced at the plant with fiber mesh that helps to prevent cracking. Second, is a reinforcing grid of steel that also prevents against cracking and twisting—steel mesh is then also installed as an additional layer of precaution. This souped-up slab of concrete is within 1/16th of an inch in 40 ft thereby ensuring the accuracy necessary for cutting.
Working our way up…A steel track is bolted into the concrete with heavy-duty anchors to resist track rotation. Finally, the mill has a true and consistent pathway to cut perfect slabs. Our mill has the capacity to cut 72” wide and 30’ long, giving it the ability to cut nearly any local tree. With trees in excess of 10’ in width, we would need a larger mill. And this is why we are in the process of setting up a mill with a 12’ cutting capacity—this will stand alone in the world of big-wood cutting.
The razor-sharp blades are essential to this saw and are in need of constant sharpening—a dull blade can rob you of an entire inch of a slab once all the divots are removed with the surfacer. This can render the slab useless if for example, a project calls for a 3-inch-thick slab and you only have 2.5 inches. Accuracy is key, which is why beginning with the concrete pad all the way down to the teeth of the blade, everything has to be spot on.
Now that we have the perfect slab, we are ready to dry it. For this purpose, we have an HFV kiln (essentially, a 480 volt microwave with vacuum capabilities). The radio waves basically activate the water molecules which then create friction and thus create heat. As the slab heats up, a vacuum is applied which lowers the boiling point of the water in the slab. The water then turns into steam and is thus extracted by the same vacuum. The carriage that was loaded into the kiln (now called a charge) will normally be 2500bf and will yield right around 350 gallons of water. Imagine 7 fifty-gallon drums of water. That is why when people say they have “dry wood,” we are skeptical. The outside may read 10%, but the inside could be as high as 80%--a recipe for a cupped and twisted piece. By expediting the drying process at a lower overall temperature, the wood stays in a truer form versus in a high-heat drying kiln.
This process gives us an extreme advantage; it gives us the ability to dry wood from ½” thick all the way up to 2 feet at an accelerated rate. If you were to ask us for a 16’ long by 4’ wide by 6” thick boardroom table in two months, we could fulfill your request. This is yet another piece of equipment that is indispensable and ensures you have the very best end product available.
The next step is probably the most arduous in the entire process. We have created a highly intricate and complex piece of equipment that devours irregularities and gives us a perfectly level and true top. Converted from a conventional carriage sawmill, it is now fitted with a flying cutting head with razor carbide teeth. It acts as a CNC machine but elevated to the next level. Weighing in at 8000lbs, it can cut a 1 foot path ½” deep at a rate of up to 25 feet per minute with unparalleled accuracy. It’s total capacity is 7 feet wide and 30 feet long—without this, a job that takes thirty minutes could take days.
Once we have a perfectly cut, dried and surfaced piece, we have to turn it into art. Our motto is “if you can tell a human touched the piece, you haven’t done your job.” This refers to choppy edges, sander marks and other blemishes. The process of filling voids and cracks that may have been preexisting in the wood or developed as the piece shrunk in the kiln involves a mixture of epoxy and surface millings. This makes for the most natural looking end product. It also adds a structural component, and unlike wood fill it is cured and does not shrink. Cracks, seams and crevices are addressed prior to sanding. We use an aggressive approach, utilizing grinders as opposed to the more random orbital sanders. We work it all the way to 320 grit paper. Front and back of the wood have to be addressed using the same process—all the way to finish. For the final touch, we go all the way around the outside edge with 800 grit ensuring all sharp edges and irregularities are addressed. The piece must be equally appealing both visually and to the touch.
The slab is rolled on its face first and after sanding it is thoroughly sealed. This keeps moisture from being absorbed and released by the wood as ambient humidity changes. If it is not finished in this way, cupping and twisting are sure to follow. Once the back is done, we roll it over and do the exact same thing.
Our choice of sealer is water born conversion varnish, While more expensive than a standard poly, it is superior in every way. It cures as opposed to air drying, creating a harder more resistant coat. It resists UV and yellowing and as it cures, it does not get that gummy feel. Application is always sprayed to ensure the smoothest possible layers. After the final spray coat, we then micro sand the top and hand polish with a trade secret which molecular bonds to the topcoat giving it a hand rubbed appearance with a slick feel without the sheen.
The bases—wood, steel or a combination—are all made in-house in our fabrication shop. It is crucial as we are able to balance the base to the project. A base that overbalances the top or vice versa can give a disproportionate feel to the piece. The width of the base is also dependent on top size—too narrow a base under a larger top and it will appear visually awkward and could easily topple.
Each and every step has taken years to implement, and all together have become our own recipe for creating the very best product for our customers.